MALTESE CITIES, VILLAGES AND SITES


RABAT

A Town For All Seasons


By: Natalino Attard


Rabat is the one Maltese town which can rival Valletta and Mdina for sites of historical significance and national importance. From the Roman Villa to the baroque majesty of St. Paul's Church, from the solemnity of the catacombs to the house of General Vaubois, Rabat has always been at the centre of the Maltese character. But Rabat has also vast tracts of countryside: from the wooded lands of Buskett to the rugged beauty of Bingemma, taking in its stride orange groves, honey making bees, carob trees, bougainvillea, narcissus, blue rock thrushes, olives, vines, prickly pears and pomegranates. Rabat encompasses some of the most breathtaking panoramas of the Maltese islands.


Short Historical Note

During the Roman period, Rabat formed part of the city of Melita (now Mdina). The Arabs subsequently reduced the size of the city and made Rabat its suburb. In fact, Rabat means "suburb" in Arabic. The locality also includes vast areas of countryside such as Bahrija, Mtahleb, Tas-Salib, Landrijiet and Lunzjata.

Rabat is rich in archaeological sites, particularly those of the Roman period. Amongst these we find the Catacombs of St. Paul, St. Aghata, L-Abatija, Tad-Dejr and St. Cathald. One can also find the remains of the Roman walls and moat and the Roman Villa.

The Parish Church of St. Paul includes a grotto where, according to tradition, St. Paul resided during his stay on the island. There are many other churches in town, including the Church of St. Francis, St. Augustine, St. Mary of Jesus (Ta' Giezu), and St. Dominic. There are also many small chapels such as those dedicated to St. Sebastian, St. Cathald, Sta. Maria (Ta' Duna), the Nativity of Our Lady and St. Bartholomew. Country chapels include the mediaeval chapel of San Cir and those of the Nativity (Mtahleb), St. Martin (Bahrija), Sta. Lucija (Mtarfa) and the Nativity (Tas-Salib).


The Coat-of-Arms

As the suburb of Malta's ancient capital, Mdina, of which it originally formed an integral part, it is appropriate that Rabat's coat-of-arms be almost identical with that of Mdina, the only difference being the addition of a spring of olive on the white and red background. It is also interesting to note that with the setting up of Local Councils in Malta and Gozo, the coat-of-arms is now legally entrenched in the Local Council Act of 1993.


Rabat - A Town for all Seasons

Today, Rabat has grown into one of the biggest towns in Malta and Gozo. The latest population count shows a population of 12,954 making Rabat the sixth largest town on the island in terms of population and the largest in term of area at 27.286 sq. km.

Rabat is a town which caters to all kinds of people all year round. Families, sportsmen and tourists are all attracted in one way or another, to the place where notwithstanding the development, one can still find several open spaces. Rabat also hosts one of the biggest public gardens in Malta. Howard Gardens form a natural border between Rabat and neighboring Mdina. The surrounding "foss" (ditch) includes, amongst other things, an orange garden, a football (soccer) ground, and a tennis court. At one end of the garden, facing Mtarfa, one can find the "tomba" - a place which is popular both with sightseers and lovers alike.

In winter, families flock to Rabat from all over the island to enjoy long walks in the natural surroundings of Bahrija, Mtahleb, or Tas-Salib countryside, eventually stopping to buy the famous Rabat "pastizzi" (Maltese cheesecakes) which are renowned for their goodness.

Tourists can find a variety of attractions in Rabat and the surrounding areas, from the several cultural and archeological sites (such as the Catacombs and the Roman Villa), to the souvenir shops and cafes. On a Sunday morning, one can stroll through the "Monti" (flea market), which is set up in front of the Parish Church, looking for a bargain. In addition, the surrounding countryside is always a source for enjoying the natural beauty of the countryside and to breath the sweet fresh air. One can still find several authentic farms outlying the town, and on occasion meet a farmer herding sheep or returning to his farm on a horse-drawn cart.

At the entrance to Mdina, a children's playing field also provides an ideal site to view the bastions of Mdina. Nearby "Saqqajja" is a popular meeting place for youth who gather under the watchful eyes of the statue of St. Paul.

Whether it is a windy day or a sunny breathless day, Rabat still provides something of interest to all visitors. Rabat, once the suburb of Mdina, is nowadays a town for all seasons.


A Place Where Tradition and History are Part of Today's Life

The traditions which have wrought the unique character of every town and village on the islands, are still as popular as ever in Rabat. The religious feasts, a source of pique in many Maltese towns and villages, are no exception in Rabat. The rivalry between the Count Roger Band and the L'Isle Adam Band, albeit much subdued nowadays, is still a feature of the modern feast. On the religious side, several feasts are celebrated in Rabat. The main ones are those of Corpus Christi, St. Paul, St. Joseph. St. Francis and the Madonna of the Grotto ("Madonna tal-Ghar").

"Mnarja," the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, provides the spectacle of the traditional horse races held below Saqqajja, with the winners being give the "Palju." This feast is one of Malta's major feasts and people from all over the island flock to Buskett to participate in the festivities. Traditional folk music and singing is a feature of this feast. People lounge under the trees of Buskett late into the night to hear the folk music and to eat rabbit stew cooked in wine, one of Malta's traditional dishes. An agricultural fair is also part of the festivities and here one can see the produce of the Maltese farmer.

The feast of St. Anthony is celebrated with the traditional blessing of the animals, which include a procession of a variety of pets and other animals such as horses and goats.

Every street and every corner of Rabat has a story to tell, whether it is an old "funtana" (fountain) or an "Ghajn tal-Hasselin" (a public fountain where in days gone by one could see women doing their laundry.) One can still wonder through the narrow roads such as Hospital Street and St. Augustine Street, which once formed part of Mdina. Or one can travel back hundreds of years and admire the Roman Villa and the relics within.

The catacombs, cut out deep within the soft limestone rock, remind us of the very distant past when our forefathers found shelter from the prosecutors of their religion, whilst St. Paul's Grotto (within the Parish Church) reminds us of the times when the converted apostle sojourned amongst our people.

The Saqajja, now bustling with vehicles, is a place which saw numerous encounters between our forefathers and the infidels, whereas neighboring Mdina is a constant reminder of our glorious past.

"Pjazza Forok," near St. Dominic's Church, is a reminder of the not-so-distant past when capital punishment was executed by means of the gallows. The "grotta" at St. Dominic's carries the legend of a hunter who slept in the cave for a number of years.

Buskett Gardens is the largest green area on the Maltese islands. Here, one can find hundreds of fruit bearing and other trees growing in a lush valley. The name Buskett comes from the Italian word "boschetto." The gardens host the traditional "Mnarja" feast to celebrate the feast of St.,. Peter and St. Paul. But the rest of the year, Buskett offers a place where one can go for long walks to enjoy nature at its best. It's a refuge from the hot summer sun and a pleasure for strolls during the cool and sometimes windy winter months.

Verdala Palace, now used by Malta's Prime Minister, is a fortified villa built in 1586 by the Cardinal Grand Master Hugues Loubens de Verdalle as his summer residence. The palace is built on a hillside overlooking Buskett Gardens. The sea surrounding Malta can be seen from the roof of the Palace. The palace was designed by the famous Maltese architect Gerolamo Cassar.

Another site of interest in the surrounding area is the Inquisitior's Summer Palace. This house is not as grandiose as Verdala Palace. However it too has an excellent view of the surrounding countryside.

Mtahleb, although hard to locate since it's invisible from ground level, is a site not to be missed. Located on the southern edge of Malta along the Dingli Cliffs, Mtahleb is a small valley located below and surrounded by the steep cliffs, except for its southern side which slowly descends towards the deep blue Mediterranean. Terraced lush-green fields are tended by a small number of farmers who live in converted caves situated in the face of the imposing cliffs or ground hugging flat-roofed houses. It is not unusual to see the roofs of the houses covered in pumpkins when in season.

Walking through Rabat is like walking through history, a place where tradition and history are indeed part of everyday life.


Presented courtesy of Fr. Paul Attard, O.F.M. Fr. Paul is the Pastor and Guardian of the St. Paul the Apostle Maltese-Canadian Parish in Toronto and Natalino's brother.

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