1	Bus Terminus		15	Our Lady of Liesse		29	Palace Square		43	Fort St. Elmo
	2	Hastings Gardens		16	Old Fish Market		30	Magisterial Palace/Armoury		44	Law Courts
	3	Kingsgate		17	Auberge de Provence		31	Market		45	Great Siege Monument
	4	Castille Place		18	St. Augustine		32	St. Ursula		46	St. Barbara Bastions
	5	Our Lady of Victory		19	Manderaggio		33	Church of Gesu'		47	Battery
	6	Site of Old Lift		20	Castelliana		34	Archiepiscopal Palace		48	Central Bank
	7	Upper Barracca Gardens		21	St. John's Co-Cathedral		35	Auberge d'Aragon		49	St. James' Ditch
	8	Customs House		22	St. Paul Shipwrecked		36	Our Lady of Pilar		50	St. James' Bastions
	9	Auberge de Castille		23	Municipal Palace		37	St. Roch		51	Great Ditch
	10	St. Catherine of Italy		24	Bibliotheca		38	Pereira Palace		52	Triton Fountain
	11	St. Barbara		25	Queen's Square		39	Auberge de Baviere		53	Phoenicia Hotel
	12	Auberge d'Italie		26	Manoel Theater		40	Lower Barracca Gardens		54	Ganado Gardens
	13	Parisio Palace		27	Carmelite Church		41	De la Salle Palace		55	Opera House Ruins
	14	St. James		28	St. Paul's Anglican		42	Hospital of the Order

Valletta, the capital city of Malta, is built on the northern half of the Sciberras peninsula, which separates the Grand Harbour from Marsamxett Harbour. The city is completely surrounded by fortifications and covers an area that is 900 meters by 630 meters The street plan is based on a more or less uniform grid. Republic Street divides one side of the city from the other and runs from Fort St. Elmo to the City Gate. Many of the streets that run parallel to Republic Street fall steeply as you get closer to the tip of the peninsula. Transverse street begin as flights of stairs at each end. The stairs do not conform to normal dimensions since they were constructed so as to allow knights in heavy armour to be able to climb the steps. The steps contributes towards the uniqueness of Valletta. Any irregularities that occur in the streets grid were imposed on it by the lie of the land and the need to have unhampered communications around the circuit of the fortifications.

Valletta was the brainchild of Grand Master Jean de la Valette. When the knights agreed, although reluctantly, to make Malta their headquarters, de la Valette quickly realized that they needed a defensible city to protect the island against the Turkish hordes that had driven them out of Rhodes and had followed them all the way to Malta. At the Grand Master's request, the Pope sent his own architect and Michelangelo's assistant, Francesco Laparelli, to Malta to help with the building of Valletta. Arriving in Malta on December 28th, 1565, he had the plans for the city drawn within three days. On March 28th, the new city was officially born. The inauguration ceremony was held on the site of the Porta Reale (the site of the entrance gates to Valletta) and the city was christened Valletta after the Grand Master. The bastions surrounding the city are impressive indeed but were never tested. Perhaps the Turkish generals realized that they were no match against the fortified city. The Grand Harbour is virtually lined with a string of bastions. Fort Sant' Elmo and Fort Ricasoli (the largest fort in the Commonwealth) protect the entrance to the harbour. Fort St. Angelo and the walls of Birgu and Senglea across the harbour shield its flank. The Grand Master died before the city was finished.

Towards the end of 1568, the Maltese architect and engineer, Gerolamo Cassar, took charge of the building of the city when Laparelli left for active service in Crete, where he died. Cassar and Laparelli laid out the street plan for the city. The first building that went up in the city is the Church of Our Lady of Victory, which commemorates the lifting of the Great Siege. Cassar designed all the auberges, the Magisterial Palace, the Conventual Church of St. John, the parish church of St. Paul, the churches of St. Mary of Porto Salvo, Carmine, St. Augustine and St. Mary of Jesus, and numerous other buildings and houses for the members of the order. Cassar died in 1586.

The gateway to Valletta was originally dedicated to St. George. It later became known as Porta Reale and eventually Kingsgate. The original gate was demolished in 1964 when the bridge that connected Valletta to Floriana was widened.

Bus Terminus (Map # 1)

Most buses start their routes from the Valletta Bus Terminus located just outside the entrance to the City and radiate to all points in Malta. Recently, buses that run direct trips between tourist areas have been instituted. These routes only operate during the summer season.

Hastings Gardens (Map # 2)

Hastings Gardens are located on top of the bastions on the West side of Kingsgate. They offer a magnificent view of Floriana, surrounding cities and Marsamxett Harbour at one end.

Kingsgate (Map # 3)

The gateway to Valletta was originally dedicated to St. George. It later became known as Porta Reale and eventually Kingsgate. The original gate was demolished in 1964 when the bridge that connects Valletta to Floriana was widened. The bridge straddles the Great Ditch which is an impressive site in itself.

Castille Place (Map #4)

This area used to serve as a Bus Terminus for buses that served the North-Western towns and villages of Malta. Now it serves as a parking area but it has been beautified with Roundabouts planted with trees and flowering bushes. Triq Girolamo Cassar, named after one of the architects of Valletta, provides one of four road access to the City from Floriana.

Our Lady of Victory, Victory Square & South Street (Map #5)

This is the first building that went up in the city. It is dedicated to Our Lady of Victory, which commemorates the lifting of the Great Siege. Construction of the church started around 1566/7. Its a barrel vaulted church with four altars in the bays between the heavy pilasters supporting the vault, and an apse on the East side. The campanile was added in 1752. The body of Jean de la Valette was entombed in the church until St. John's Co-Cathedral was built.

Site of Old Lifts (Map #6)

Until quite recently in history, lifts connected the Upper Barracca Gardens with Lascaris Wharf. The lift was quite famous and was heavily used by people who wanted to reach the hub of Valletta from the wharf without walking all the way up the steep streets. The site was also Malta's version of "Lovers' Leap" before the lift was torn down. A few people decided to end their troubles by taking a leap from this location.

Upper Barracca Gardens (Map #7)

This is one of two gardens, one named Upper Barracca and the other Lower Barracca, facing the Grand Harbour. Both offer a panoramic view of the Grand Harbour. The Upper Barracca Gardens offer the best view since they're more centered and at a much higher level. The garden was the gift of an eighteenth-century knight. The Anglican Garrison Church partly intrudes upon it. The garden is built on top of a demi-bastion. The Grand Harbour side of the Gardens is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence. The view of the harbour from this vantage point is magnificent and many people spend hours taking in the site.

An arcade on the same side gives this area the feeling of a balcony. A number of statues, monuments and plaques fill the gardens. A small fountain full of water-lilies and gold fish is located at the center of the garden. A kiosk located on the south side offers cool drinks, ice-cream and tea and coffee to weary tourists and other visitors to the gardens. During a visit in the summer of 1995 I noticed a large number of cats roaming the garden and climbing the old trees.

Customs House, Lascaris Wharf (Map #8)

Located on Lascaris Wharf, the Customs House is an old building designed by Giuseppe Bonnici. The lower rooms of the Customs House are vaulted.

Auberge de Castille, Castille Place (Map #9)

The Auberge de Castille et Leon is the building that greets visitors arriving in Valletta via Triq Girolamo Cassar. The auberge was designed by Girolamo Cassar but later remodeled under Grand Master di Pinto, the Portuguese Grand Master of the langue of Castille et Leon. The architect, Domenico Cachia, who had studied in Catania and Lecee, started this work in 1744, at the age of 44. It is symmetrical and uniform. The building incorporates parts of Cassar's original building. The Auberge de Castille is one of the finest work of the eighteenth century on Malta. The building now houses the offices of the Prime Minister.

St. Catherine of Italy, Victory Square (Map #10)

This church is located on Victory Square. It is the church of the langue of Italy. It was designed by Girolamo Cassar in 1576. The church was rebuilt in the seventeenth century.

St. Barbara (Map #11)

This was the church of the langue of Provence. Construction of the church started in 1739. The church was designed by Giuseppe Bonnici.

Auberge d'Italie, Merchant’s Street (Map #12)

The original building was designed by Girolamo Cassar and construction of the building started in 1574. However, the building was later considerably altered. The auberge is built around an arcaded courtyard.

Parisio Palace, Merchant's Street (Map #13)

This building was erected around 1760. It now houses the General Post Office. Napoleon used the Palace for his lodgings during the French occupation o Malta.

St. James, Merchant Street (Map #14)

St. James was built in 1610. It was subsequently enlarged in 1710 by architect Giovanni Barbara. It has a very ornate facade. This was the church of the langue of Castille.

Our Lady of Liesse, Liesse Hill (Map #15)

The church was first built in 1620 and then rebuilt in 1740.

Old Fish Market, Below Victoria Gate off Liesse Hill (Map #16)

The original buildings were destroyed during World War II and were then rebuilt.

Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (Map #17)

Building of the Auberge started in 1571. The building occupies one entire block and now houses the National Museum. The Museum houses many fine examples of pottery, figurines, and original carved stones from various prehistoric temples.

St. Augustine, Old Bakery Street (Map #18)

The original church was built by Cassar. Its interior is in the form of a Greek Cross and is exquisitely decorated. The architect who rebuilt the church was Domenico Cachia, also the architect who rebuilt the Auberge de Castille de Leon.

Manderaggio, Marsamxett Street (Map #19)

The knights had hoped to excavate this site to construct a galley port safe from storms, somewhat similar to the Manderaggio of Rhodes. The stone blocks excavated from the site were to be used to help build Valletta. However, the lower rock stratum was not suitable for building stone and worked stopped before sea level was reached. The Manderaggio sits across from Manoel Island in Marsamxett Harbour. A Water Polo Pitch was built in recent years and is still in use. Abandoned bathing ponds carved out of the rock and fed by the sea from the harbour can still be seen here. A small restaurant with an outside patio overlooking Marsamxett harbour is located at the north end of Marsamxett street as it meets Sebastian's Street. The patio offers a great view of the Harbour and the City of Sliema across the Harbour.

Castellania, Merchant's Street (Map #20)

This building was built to house the Criminal and Civil courts. The building was completed in 1760. It was built during the reign of Grand Master di Pinto and the crescent moons from his crest decorate the building. The front of the building is very elaborately carved. The doorway is pillared. A balcony and elaborate windows are located above the door. The center-piece rises in an arc above the cornice and includes rococo carvings of the figures of Justice and Truth, by Maestro Gian, a Sicilian sculpture.

The building was designed by Maltese architect Francesco Zerafa. He died in 1758 before the building was completed. Giuseppe Bonnici was engaged to complete the building. It now houses the Medical and Health Departments. A new Law Court building was built Republic Street.

St. John's Co-Cathedral, St. John's Square (Map #21)

1 -	Adoration of the Magi: Germany
2 -	St. Catherine: Italy
3 -	St. Paul: France
4 -	St. Michael: Provence
5 -	Chapel of the Holy Relics
6 -	Our Lady of Philermos
7 -	St. Sebastian: Auvergne
8 -	St. George: Aragon
9 -	St. James: Castille, Leon et Portugal

St. John's Co-Cathedral

St. John the Baptist is the Patron Saint of the Order. This was the Order's church and was accorded the status of Co-Cathedral in 1882 along with the Cathedral at Mdina. Before the Cathedral was built, a Conventual church was located at Birgu, across the Grand Harbour. Building of the Cathedral was started in 1573 under the sponsorship of Grand Master La Cassiere. La Cassiere paid for the initial cost of the building. The architect was Gerolamo Cassar.

The exterior of the building is extremely plain and very uninteresting and belies the grandeur of the interior of the Cathedral. Cassar died in 1586 before the wings were built (1598 and 1604) Sir. Walter Scott described the interior of the Cathedral as the most striking he had ever seen. When you enter the Cathedral, your eyes are drawn to the high altar.

The plan is rectangular, 56.7 by 35.4 meters. Either side of the nave, buttresses to support the thrust of the vault are concealed in walls which divide the sides into a number of Chapels. Under the buttresses, the walls of the Chapels are pierced by arched openings, aligned to create token aisles. The nave vault is supported by massive, four-sided pilasters. The interior is comparatively low but massive.

Almost all the faces of the stone walls are carved in high relief and painted in rich colours and guilded. Each langue was allocated a chapel of its own in 1604. The chapels contain monuments - usually tombs - of the later Grand Masters of the langues. Earlier Grand Masters are buried in the crypt.

The floor of the Cathedral is covered in multi-coloured marble slabs, each the tomb of a knight bearing his arms in elaborate marble inlay.

The vault is frescoed and was done by Calabrian master Mattia Preti. The paintings were commissioned by the Cotoner brothers, Raphael and Nicholas. Mattia Preti begun his work in 1662 and completed it in 1667.

During the feast of St. John (June 21), priceless tapestries from the time of Grand Master Ramon Perellos, are hung along the nave half-way down the side arches. The fourteen panels were made in Belgium by Judocus de Vos in 1697 and are based on paintings by Rubens and Poussin. During the rest of the year the tapestries are on display in the adjoining Museum.

Oratory and Museum

The main attraction in the Oratory is Caravaggio's masterpiece 'The Beheading of St. John'. This painting was done in 1608. The Museum can be reached from the Oratory. The tapestries are housed in the museum. There is also another painting by Caravaggio, that of St. Jerome.

Crypt

The Crypt can be reached from the Chapel of Provence. The Crypt contains the tombs of Grand Masters: Philippe de L'Isle Adam (1521-34), Pietrino del Ponte 1534-35), Juan de Homedes (1536-53), Claude de la Sengle (1553-57), Jean Parisot de la Valette (1557-68), Pietro del Monte (1568-72), Jean l'Eveque de la Cassiere (1572-81), Hugues Loubenx de Verdalle (1581-95), Martin Garzes (1595-1601), Aloph de Wignacourt (1601-22), Luis Mendez de Vasconcellos (1622-23) and Ximenes de Texada (1773-5). Also buried in the crypt is de la Valette's English secretary, Sir Oliver Starkey.

St. Paul Shipwrecked, St. Paul Street (Map #22)

This is one of the earlier churches built in Valletta. The chapel of the Blessed Sacrament was designed by Lorenzo Gafa in 1680. The figure of St. Paul is the work of Lorenzo's brother, Melchiorre Gafa. The statue is carved out of wood, painted and guilded.

Municipal Palace, Merchants Street (Map #23)

Built in 1720 and known as the Banca Giuratale, this building housed the "Municipal" government, the only area of governing that Maltese people had a say in during the reign of the Knights. The areas of jurisdiction of the Municipal Governments were basically those of organizing the male population for military and guard duties and collecting taxes for the Order.

Bibliotheca, Queen's Square (Map #24)

The Royal Malta Library is housed in the building. It is an impressive building, in and out. The building was designed by Stephano Ittar and paid for by Bailli Jean Louis Guerin de Tencin.

Queen's Square (Map #25)

The square is bounded by the Bibliotecha at the back and the Magisterial Palace and Armoury on one side. A statue of Queen Victoria is located at the center of the square. A statue of Manoel de Vilhena used to occupy the square. The square was known as the Piazza Del Tesoro (Treasury Square) since the Order's treasury building was situated across Republic Street. The treasury building is now a Club. Cafe' Cordina is also located across the street from the square.

The square is now used as a sidewalk cafe' by restaurants that border the square, including Cafe' Cordina and Premier. It is a great place to sit, sip a cool Kinnie of a cappuccino, eat some Pastizzi or other pastries, and watch the people go by. Republic Street is closed to vehicular traffic and people use it as a mall.

Manoel Theater, Old Theater Street (Map #26)

The theater was built during the reign of Manoel de Vilhena. Building of the theater started in 1731 and is one of the oldest theaters in Europe.

Carmelite Church, Old Theater Street (Map #27)

Originally built by Gerolamo Cassar in 1573, it was altered by Giuseppe Bonavia. The church was enlarged in recent history by building a new shell around the original building. Work on the interior of the church and its dome and steeple is still in progress.

St. Paul's Anglican Cathedral, Independence Square (Map #28)

The church was commissioned in the winter of 183809 by Queen Adelaide during a visit to Malta when she found out that there was no place of Anglican worship on the island. This was the site of the old auberge of the langue of Germany. The 200-foot steeple of the Cathedral along with the Carmelite Church dome can be seen from across Marsamxett harbour.

Palace Square (Map #29)

Formerly known as the Piazza San Giorgo (St. George Square) the square was used for many military ceremonies during the time of British occupation of the islands. The square is bound by the Main Guard (facing the palace), Republic Street, Old Theater Street, and Archbishop Street. The Main Guard was built to bear the Royal Arms and the legend "MAGNAE ET INVICTAE BRITANNIAE MELITENSIUM AMOR ET EUROPAE VOX HAS INSULAS CONFIRMAT A.D. 1814" (To great and unconquered Britain the love of the Maltese and the voice of Europe confirms these islands, A.D. 1814).

Magesterial Palace & Armoury, Republic Street and Palace Square (Map # 30)

The site of the palace was occupied by one of the first houses built in Valletta. The house was that of Eustachio del Monte, the nephew of the Grand Master The first building was constructed in 1569. The order bought the house in 1571. Gerolamo Cassar was commissioned to build the palace.

The exterior is quite imposing. The original iron balconies were replaced by wooden balconies around 1741. The interior is built around two courtyards. The palace incorporates Eustachio's house in the south-west corner. There are two entrances in the front and an entrance from Queens' Square just west of the Bibliotecha. One of the courtyards is predominated by a statue of Neptune. The entrance to the state rooms is in the Neptune Courtyard via a spiral staircase. The ceiling of the entrance corridor was painted by Nicolo Nasini da Siena in 1724.

The Hall of St. Michael and St. George was the throne room. The ceiling, as in all the upper rooms, is of timber supported by beams whose great span is supported by carved corbels. The ceiling was painted by Matteo Perez d'Alessio before 1600. Scenes of the Great Siege decorates the walls. Opposite the throne, a beautiful gallery made from the stern of the Grand Carrack of Rhodes, hangs on the wall. The Grand Carrack of Rhodes was the flagship in which de L'Isle-Adam used when the Knights left Rhodes.

The Hall of Ambassadors, also known as the Red Room, is reached from the throne room. Portraits adorn the Hall of the Ambassadors.

The Council Chambers, now used as the Maltese Parliament, is hung by Gobelins tapestries which were presented to the order by Grand Master Perellos. The panels represent the riches of the Caribbean and tropical South America.

The Armoury runs the width of the back of the palace. Entrance to the Armoury is located in the second courtyard. The Armoury houses one of the very finest collections of weapons of the period of the Knights of Malta in all of Europe. Spears, swords, shields, heavy armour and other weapons can be found on display in the Armoury. Dragut's sword is also displayed here.

Market, Merchants and Old Theater Streets (Map #31)

The original building that housed the Market has been replaced by a new building. The old Market had great character and was a joy to visit.

St. Ursula, St. Ursula Street (Map #32)

The church of St. Ursula was probably built around 1583.

Church of Gesu', Merchant and Archbishop Streets (Map #33)

This is the church of the old University of Malta. The architect was Francesco Bonamici. The church is incorporated in the University building. The University of Malta, one of the oldest in Europe, was established in 1595 as the Jesuit College of studies with a grant from the King of Spain. The church, which occupies nearly half the building, was built between 1592 and 1600. The entrance to the church is a magnificent Baroque design. The college occupies the rest of the building. When the Jesuits were expelled from the island in 1768, the college was constituted as a University. The old University has been replaced by a more modern University at Msida.

Archiepiscopal Palace, Archbishop Street (Map #34)

The front of the building is quite impressive. The building was built in the seventeenth century to house the Bishop's Palace.

Auberge d'Aragon, Independence Square (Map #35)

Construction of this auberge started in 1571. It is a one-story building with a basement. The building also housed the Prime Minister's residence.

Our Lady of Pilar, West Street (Map #36)

This church adjoins the Auberge d’Aragon. TI dates back to 1670. The interior is extremely rich and decorated. The order of nuns that look after the church have a convent and school on Marsamxett Street facing Marsamxett Harbour.

St. Roch, St. Ursula Street (Map #37)

This is a small church by an unknown architect. The church is quite beautifully designed.

Pereira Palace, Republic Street (Map #38)

The palace was built in the sixteenth century.

Auberge de Baviere, St. Sebastian's Street (Map #39)

The building dates from 1696. It was bought by the Bailiff Carner in 1784 to house the auberge for the newly constituted Anglo-Bavarian langue. The building is now used as a school.

Lower Barracca Gardens, East and Mediterranean Streets (Map #40)

The Lower Baracca Gardens offer a magnificent view of the Grand Harbour and the Breakwater. There is a monument dedicated to Captain Ball in the center of the gardens. The new Great Siege monument and Bell can also be seen from the gardens.

De la Salle Palace, Merchant Street (Map #41)

The palace was built in the late sixteenth century. It has a very simple doorway and grilled mezzanine windows. The main reception room of the palace, measures approximately ten meters by six meters and a height of six meters. The palace was the residence of Ramon Perellos before he became Grand Master. Later it housed the Malta Society of Arts, Manufacturers and Commerce.

Hospital of the Order, Mediterranean Street (Map #42)

The Hospital of the Order was built around 1575. The architect is unknown. The courtyard and the buildings around it were added during the reign of Grand Master Perellos in 1662. Perellos also built the medical library for the hospital. The Cotoner brothers created a school of anatomy and surgery and another for infectious diseases. The Great Ward, destroyed during the last world war and since rebuilt, is 156 meters long, 10.5 meters wide, and over 9 meters high, making it one of the longest rooms in Europe.

The hospital now serves as a convention center and many international conventions have been held in the renovated and modernized buildings.

Fort St. Elmo, Bottom of Republic Street (Map #43)

This was one of the first forts built by the Knights when they arrived in Malta. Pietor Prado, a Spanish engineer, was give the task of building the fort. The Plan was in the shape of a star. It was completed in 1553. This was two years after Dragut had attacked Malta. The fort was completely destroyed during the Great Siege of 1565.

The fort was rebuilt by Laparelli in 1567. Various renovations and additions were made to the Fort in subsequent years. These include:

• A Fausse-braie by Don Carlos de Grunnenberg, the Spanish King's military engineer
• A triple range of casements by Chevalier Tigne
• Outer bastions by Sir Alexander Ball, the first Civil Commissioner of Malta

Deep pits with stone lids for grain storage were also dug in the rock in front of the Fort.

Law Courts, Republic Street (Map #44)

The new Law Courts, across Republic Street from the Great Siege Square are a recent addition to public buildings in Valletta. The site was formerly occupied by the Auberge d'Auvergne. The Facade of the Auberge was demolished during one of the aerial bombings of Valletta in World War II.

Opera House Ruins (Map #55)

The Opera House occupied a whole at the corner of Republic Street and South Street. The Opera House was demolished during a raid in World War II. Remains of the building still mark the entrance to Valletta and some small shops are located in part of the building facing Republic Street. The bombed out area that formed the Opera House is currently used as a parking lot. The whole perimeter of the parking lot consists of the outer walls of the street level walls of the Opera House.

Pictures of Valletta

All the pictures were taken in June of 1995 during my visit to Malta.

Maltese Traditional Balconies
Manderaggio
Cannon
The Maltese Falcon?
Cafe Cordina
Ye Old Postal Box)
Republic Street
St. John's Street
Old Mint Street

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